Honeysuckles, Shrub

Fact SheetTreatmentLonicera sp.

Images of this species:

Common look-alikes:

Identification

There are four invasive species of bush honeysuckle that invade Vermont forests. These include Amur honeysuckle (Lonicera maackki), Morrow’s honeysuckle (Loniceria morrowii), Tartanian honeysuckle, (Lonicera tatarica) and Bell’s honeysuckle (Lonicera x bella).  All of them are deciduous shrubs with opposite, egg shaped leaves, fragrant flowers, and red or orange-red berries. They can grow to be 15 feet high.

The four invasive species are difficult to distinguish from one another. The most important thing to know is how to tell it apart from native honeysuckle. All of the invasive honeysuckle species found in Vermont have a hollow pith. Native honeysuckle has a solid white pith and is not typically as robust of a shrub as the invasives.

***Check out the downloadable fact sheet above***

Biology

Ecological Threat

These invasive species compete with native plants for sunlight, moisture and pollinators. And while birds eat the fruit, it is poorer in fats and nutrients than fruits from native plants, so the birds do not get enough nutrients to help sustain long flights during migrations.

Origin

Asia, Shrub or bush honeysuckles were introduced to North America for use in landscaping, erosion control and wildlife cover. Unfortunately, these plants then spread throughout much of the country.

Habitat

Forest, forest edge, floodplains, meadows, fields, disturbed areas

Life Cycle

Shrub honeysuckles reproduce mainly by seed but some vegetative re-sprouting can occur in established populations. Plants mature between 3-5 years of age. Each plant produces thousands of berries as fruit, and each fruit contains 2-6 seeds. Seeds can remain viable for 3-5 years.

Management Options

These species are Quarantined: Class B Noxious Weeds

***Check out the downloadable treatment sheet above***

Mechanical Management

Hand pull: Any time of year when the ground is soft, especially after a rain, hand pull small plants by the base of the stem. Be sure to pull up the entire root system. Hang from a branch to prevent re-rooting. For larger plants, use a wrenching tool. Continue to monitor the area every year for new seedlings.

Cut stump: Cut plants back in the fall or winter. Wrap a few layers of burlap or thick plastic over the stump and tie tightly with twine or rope. Check covered stumps periodically and cut back any new growth.

Chemical Management

  • Be careful not to damage or kill nearby native plants when conducting management work.
  • Always read and follow pesticide label directions. Application of pesticides may require a certification from the Agency of Agriculture, Food and Markets. The Agency website provides information on what applicator certification is needed.

Cut stump:  Cut the plant 4 inches above the ground. Use a drip bottle to apply an 18-21% glyphosate solution to the stump within one hour of cutting. This is best done in late summer through winter when plants are transporting resources to their root systems.

Low volume foliar spray: This method is used for dense populations and best left to a contractor. In the fall, when native plants are losing their leaves, spray a 2% glyphosate or triclopyr solution on the entire leaf surface of the plant. In order to avoid drift to native plants, spray only on calm days.

 

How You Can Help

NATIVE/NON-INVASIVE ALTERNATIVES

Northern Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), alternate leaved dogwood (syn. Pagoda dogwood) (Swida alternifolia), black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa)

 

Native Perennials and Shrubs for Vermont Gardens

Choose native plants

Alternatives to Common Invasive Plants and Characteristics of Select Alternatives